The freeze-dried candy craze has yielded some pleasant and strange surprises from major brands and small businesses alike. While freeze-dried Skittles or Lemonheads are tasty and fun, for example, I would argue that the freeze-dried Little Debbie Christmas Tree Cakes I once sampled are an abomination to both science and sweets.

Maybe we are still in the process of distinguishing what we can freeze-dry from what we should freeze-dry. As M&M’s enters the freeze-dried fray, I’m happy to report that the brand got it right on the first try.

Of all the flavors to work with, M&M’s Pop’d pulled a Peter Piper and possibly picked the perfect product to pop. Milk chocolate? Too basic. Peanut? Not great for freeze-drying. Enter Caramel M&M’s, which consist of milk chocolate and a chewy caramel center, two elements that, when freeze-dried, are familiar and yet transformed.

The result is delicious. The expected flavors of milk chocolate and sweet, buttery caramel are recognizable, although lighter and less rich. I was expecting a dulled chocolate flavor, but it remains vibrant. The candy shell—so constant across all M&M varieties that it is almost boring—seems sweeter and more interesting in freeze-dried form.

The real excitement of these candies is, of course, the texture. The M&M’s are light and crispy with grainy, airy centers that easily dissolve in the mouth. The caramel center is necessary to push this product from fun novelty to tasty treat. It reminds me of sponge candy, a light and crispy confection made with caramelized sugar that is so popular where I live that local shops sell t-shirts proclaiming, “You either love sponge candy or you’re wrong.” I will admit when I am wrong, but if polishing off these candies by myself is wrong, I see no point in being right.

My only qualm with M&M’s Pop’d is the higher price point that comes with any novelty. Depending on where you shop, you could pay as much as three times more per ounce compared to a bag of standard M&M’s. Because Pop’d candies are so light, it’s easier to eat more, which makes it feel like the product doesn’t go as far. Once I figure out a way to collect and use the candy dust that settles at the bottom of the bag, I may make M&M’s Pop’d a regular purchase rather than a once-in-a-while treat. If you have any ideas, please share . . . I’m getting close to the bottom of the bag already.

Purchased Price: $7.79
Purchased at: CVS
Size: 5.5 oz (155 g) bag
Rating: 8 out of 10
Nutrition Facts: (per 1 oz, about 11 pieces) 130 calories, 5 grams of fat, 3.5 grams of saturated fat, 0 grams of trans fat, less than 5 milligrams of cholesterol, 45 milligrams of sodium, 20 grams of carbohydrates, 0 grams of fiber, 18 grams of sugar, and 1 gram of protein