Starbucks may be synonymous with coffee, but the chain isn’t exactly known for its less drinkable menu options. With the holidays in full swing, the java giant is trying to change that perception with offerings like the Cinnamon Pull-Apart, which is basically a product that’s half croissant and half mini-cinnamon rolls fused together. In essence, it’s a monkey bread pastry in a fancy little sleeve.
The Pull-Apart itself is kind of hard to describe. Or at least harder to describe than I anticipated. To the untrained eye, it might be confused for a slightly larger muffin than normal. It’s not until you’re actually holding it in your hand that you realize the item is actually multiple baked goods in one package, and even then, you may not immediately recognize it as a cinnamon roll-like comestible. Of course, the scent is unmistakable — it may not look like a regular old cinnamon roll, but it definitely smells like one.
As for the taste, it’s a lot of good and a few minor quibbles. For starters, it’s a pretty hefty little croissant, with a nice speckling of sugar and a hearty smattering of streusel — which you might know by its less artistic culinary namesake, “crumb topping.” My Pull-Apart had about five, maybe five-and-a-half little croissant balls wedged together, and I was actually surprised by how filling the seemingly lightweight snack was. This thing has some weight to it, so if you’re eating it as a post-breakfast tide-me-over, don’t be surprised if it wipes out the need for lunch altogether. It’s hearty stuff, especially when you pair it with a venti dark roast with four protein shots and extra oat milk.
There’s not that much variation between fast food cinnamon rolls (and let’s be real, they can call these things whatever they want, they’re still cinnamon rolls), and I’d contend that this is one of the better ones I’ve tried from a big-name, national brand. Obviously, it’s not as good as something you’d get from a “real” bakery, but it’s pretty respectable stuff all the same. It nails just the right balance between crispy and chewy, which has always been the Achilles’ heel of similar products. It’s got a lot of flavor without being too overwhelming, which makes it a solid choice for a (relatively) low-calorie fast food snack.
As for the product’s biggest downside, let me sum it up in one word: frosting. Or more accurately, the lack of frosting. I can understand why Starbucks would’ve taken a “healthier” approach with these things, but if you’re buying cinnamon rolls from a drive-thru window, you don’t just expect adequate amounts of icing, you demand it. The lack of dipping sauce here is just unconscionable — especially with so many holiday tie-in flavors to take advantage of this time of year.
And yes, I know that monkey bread is traditionally served sans frosting. But if you’re gonna sell a baked good with “cinnamon” in its name, be prepared for customers to inevitably compare it to a cinnamon roll.
The Pull-Apart is good, perhaps even better than I expected. But it’s nothing you haven’t tried before. The concept’s got promise, though — a PSL glaze on these things would be awesome.
Purchased Price: $3.25
Rating: 7 out of 10
Nutrition Facts: 300 calories — 13 grams of total fat, 8 grams of saturated fat, 0 grams of trans fat, 35 mg of cholesterol, 350 mg of sodium, 38 grams of total carbohydrates, 0 grams of dietary fiber, 13 grams of sugar, and 6 grams of protein
At least a little paper cup of “vanilla frosting” dipping sauce would be a nice addition to this. (I’ve seen pizza chains which offer “cinna-mini breadsticks” as a dessert option include that.)
Not a fan of scabs, and this doesn’t look good either. Hard pass.